Upstanding citizens shrank from the mere thought of all-night eateries but in actuality they were probably some of the most democratic places in that they drew characters from all stations of life.Īn all-nighter of renown in the 20th century was Coffee Dan’s, originally in San Francisco, which operated as an eating and entertainment venue, then a speakeasy in the 1920s and early 1930s. Chicago’s all-night cafes on State Street were often portrayed as unsavory places where police connected with “stool pigeons” enjoying their midnight snack. This was by actual count.” No doubt many of his fellow diners included some outside the law but also other denizens of the night such as newspaper printers, trolley conductors, bakers, and factory shift workers.Īll-night restaurants were not just found in NYC but in all big cities and were often densest in areas near newspapers, city food markets, and ferries. For the clam chowder they used the same four clams during the whole season, and the average number of flies per pie was seven. at a rough little place: “It was the toughest kind of restaurant ever seen. Thomas Edison recalled that when his machine shop was on Goerck Street in NYC in the 1880s he used to grab a bite at 2 or 3 a.m. People working at night surely outnumbered the pleasure seekers. He reported that patrons could be discovered consuming fish balls or pickled salmon at 3 or 4 a.m. But even Ellington observed that patrons of private dining rooms in these quasi-bordellos were also there to eat. One such book was George Ellington’s The Women of New York Or, the Under-world of the Great City. No doubt their readers felt a shiver of horrified excitement when they spotted signs along city streets advising “Ladies’ dining parlor, up stairs”’ or “Refreshments at all hours.” Was it or wasn’t it? ![]() ![]() The authors of the many Victorian “lights and shadows” books about urban immorality were quite fascinated by the dubious goings on in all-night supper clubs. They enjoyed oyster cellars, but one of their favorite places in the 1840s was Butter-cake Dick’s, where for a mere 6 cents they could get a generous plate of biscuits with butter and a cup of coffee. In pre-Civil War NYC all night eateries were haunts of “b’hoys,” a class of rogue males (sometimes accompanied by their g’hals) prominently made up of firemen and the more prosperous newsboys. Mostly there are three kinds of customers for all-night restaurants: those who travel at night, those who work at night, and those who play at night. Those that are open 24 hours a day stand out from the crowd by their tirelessness and involvement in sometimes unwanted adventures. One way of sorting eating places is by the hours they keep.
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